Flat, understated, as authentic as it is peaceful — Maio, Cape Verde, feels cut off from everything, as if time had stopped here. Twenty-five kilometres of some of the country's finest beaches, dunes as far as the eye can see, and seven thousand people who live off fishing and the land.
Updated August 2026Reading time: 11 min
25km of beaches
7,000inhabitants
25,600ha of natural park
437m, Monte Penoso
1887the fort turned lighthouse
1road around the island
Maio doesn't try to charm you, and that may be what makes it endearing. The island measures twenty-five kilometres from north to south and sixteen from east to west, and its road network boils down to one main road that runs all the way round — the rest is poorly maintained tracks.
What's left once you've accepted that: big skies, dunes, marine wildlife, and the warmth of the islanders — mostly fishermen and farmers. Don't hire a car. Flag down an aluguer, the shared minibus or pick-up taxi that links towns.
The essentials before you go
Getting thereBy plane with the national airline, or by ferry with the inter-island shipping company. Both serve Vila do Maio, the capital, in the south-west.
No carHiring one isn't the best option, given how hard it is to find your way around and the poor state of the tracks. You'll save yourself some aggravation by giving it up.
AluguersThey wait behind the post office, in front of the petrol station, and at the airport. They are the island's means of transport.
MoneyOne bank in the centre of Vila do Maio, right by the church square, with a cash machine. Withdraw cash there: there is nothing anywhere else on the island.
The best seasonSalt harvesting happens mainly from April to June, and turtles lay their eggs from late June to early September. Two reasons to plan your dates around them.
Don't missThe salt pans of Vila do Maio, Forte São José, Praia Ponta Preta and the fishing village of Calheta.
Getting your bearings
The island in three zones
A single road runs all the way round, which makes things much simpler: the capital and its salt pans in the south-west, the west and north coast up to the natural park, and the east coast, greener and a little less hot. Click a zone to show only that one.
Area
Beach Village & town Sight & curiosity
Good to knowPositions are approximate: they are there to give you your bearings, not to navigate by.
The question everyone really asks
Maio beaches: which one, and can you swim?
Twenty-five kilometres of beaches, but they are not all equal once you are in the water. Bays sheltered by rocks are excellent; the long, exposed beaches of the north and east coasts are magnificent and dangerous. Here is how they divide up.
Beach
From
Access
Swimming
The rule hereWhen a beach on Maio is long, open and magnificent, it is usually swept by wind and currents. The good swimming is in the small bays — Calheta, Morro, Praia da Lagoa — where rocks break the swell.
The salt pans of Maio.
Zone 1
Vila do Maio and its salt pans
SalinasForte São JoséPonta PretaBitche Rotcha
Also known as Porto Inglês, the capital has everything: the port, the airport, the bank, the island's four restaurants, and the two things people really come to see — the salt and the fort.
The Salinas, Maio's white gold
5 km by 1.5 kmguided visitearly morning
From the seafront, the road down to the port opens up a splendid view over the salt pans. They were the island's main economic hub in the 17th century, and have since shrunk to five kilometres long by one and a half wide.
Go early in the morning: first to avoid being dazzled by the sun's glare off the salt, then to get a guided visit from the employees of the cooperative that runs the site.
The best timeHarvesting takes place mainly between April and June, with shovels and pickaxes. Watching it gives you an idea of the courage and work ethic of the people of Maio — it is the best moment of the visit.
O Centro Interpretativo das Salinas
Vila do Maioexhibition, film, shop
A space for exhibiting and sharing Maio's vast material, intangible and natural heritage — one of the most emblematic and mysterious islands in Cape Verde.
The exhibition is built around salt as a precious natural resource whose value has shaped the whole history and identity of the country. There are several exhibition rooms, a screening room and a shop. Do it before the salt pans rather than after: you will look at the basins differently afterwards.
Forte São José
under 20 m18th centurylighthouse since 1887
A square tower less than twenty metres high, set inside a rectangle of crenellated walls, built in the 18th century when Maio had to face successive pirate attacks. Converted into a lighthouse in 1887, the building still has several cannons pointing out to sea. Whitewashed, with the silhouette of a little castle, it is one of the town's few attractions.
A fine esplanade of ochre stone has been laid out there, where musicians like to gather, by day and in the evening. It is the best reason to come back a second time.
Finding itAt the far left-hand end of Avenida Amílcar Cabral, when you face the sea. The island has a second lighthouse at Porto Cais, 22 km to the north-west.
Praia Bitche Rotcha
town centre4 km of sandbeach bars
It is the busiest of all Maio's beaches, no doubt thanks to its location right in the town centre. Four kilometres of fine white sand where you can laze about watching the waves dance. It is good for swimming — though stay alert: the rollers can be violent.
It comes alive at the end of the day and especially at weekends: locals organise picnics, swimming races and dance competitions that you can join in. Unless you would rather watch the cheerful spectacle from a beach bar, drink in hand.
Praia Ponta Preta
east of Vila do Maiopaved roadseveral kilometres
Leaving Vila do Maio to the east, follow the paved road that overlooks the ocean: it leads to this wild beach stretching for several kilometres. Often lashed by the wind, the turquoise sea is stirred up by impressive waves. The sight is strikingly beautiful.
The boldest will be tempted to brave the rollers, but you should know that swimming is dangerous here — except at low tide, when the rocks form small natural pools. The shade of the cliff brings a welcome coolness that invites a nap.
Local colour
Five hundred sacks a day, by shovel
The cooperative that now runs Maio's salt pans was founded in 2003. It is made up mostly of women.
This small outfit produces five hundred ten-kilo sacks of salt a day — five tonnes — using shovels and pickaxes as tools. No machines, no conveyor belts, no pumped brine: the salt is gathered, piled up and bagged by hand, under the sun, in the glare off the basins.
It is the same salt that made the island's fortune in the 17th century, when ships came here to stock up. The difference is that today you can watch the people who harvest it, and talk to them.
The boats of Calheta and its two beaches.
Zone 2
The west and north coast
CalhetaMorrinho dunesturtlesceramics
You head up the paved road, run alongside an acacia forest, stop off with the fishermen — then the road ends and the natural park begins. It is the most beautiful part of the island, and the least accessible.
Morro, the village under the acacias
5 km northreachable on footsheltered beach
The village stretches along a fine paved road, which itself crosses an acacia forest planted to halt the island's desertification. On the shore, its lovely beach, well sheltered from the wind, has attracted property developers, who have built resort-style residences mostly run by Italians, Britons and Spaniards.
From Vila do Maio you can do the trip on foot. Hardy walkers will even carry on to Calheta — provided you bring sun protection and plenty of water.
At the entrance to the villageA cooperative revived the local ceramics tradition in 2013. In this modest workshop you can watch artisans making kitchen utensils and a few decorative objects — and you rarely leave empty-handed.
Calheta, the fishing port
12 km northtwo beachescalm waters
In this fishing village, the sight of the colourful boats coming back from sea — early in the morning or at the end of the day — is an unforgettable moment. It is a chance to admire fine catches of lobster, octopus and bonito: Calheta is Maio's main supplier of seafood.
The hamlet nestles in a bay known for its two beaches, one of black sand and the other of white sand. Protected by rocks, the waters are calm and pleasant. It is the ideal spot if you are after peace and a change of scene — especially as the village has a few attractive places to stay.
Praia da Soca, alone in the world
14 km north4x4 or 3h on footdeserted
Between Calheta and Morrinho lies a wild, deserted spot. Access is particularly difficult: forget about going if you don't have a 4x4 or aren't confident driving in dunes.
If you do, or if you are set on going anyway, follow the sandy track on foot from the main road at the signpost, and allow three hours' walk under a blazing sun. Your efforts will be richly rewarded: this beach gives you the exquisite feeling of being alone in the world.
Parque Natural do Norte
25,600 ha20,000 of them marineguide essential
The jewel of Maio. From Morrinho, go round the houses and follow a dirt track for about two kilometres to the Morrinho dunes: they form a bewitching landscape. On these terras salgadas — former salt pans — vegetation is reduced to a few clumps of dry grass and scattered shrubs, across a territory so vast that only a small part of it can be explored.
From Morrinho, allow 6.5 km on foot to reach Porto Cais beach, the same again for Santana — the wildest and most secret — and double that to get to Real or the Galeão cove. Access to each of these beaches is hard, and almost impossible without a guide.
You will be struck by the immensity of this landscape of dunes pouring into the sea. But be warned: you can only admire it. The particularly violent currents rule out any swimming.
The way backFrom Galeão bay, a track of about 6 km leads back inland to the village of Cascabulho, 15 km from Vila do Maio — where the road for exploring the east coast begins.
In the air
Yesterday's whales, today's turtles
Once, whales came to strand themselves on the beaches of northern Maio. The site has stayed unspoilt — twenty-five thousand six hundred hectares, twenty thousand of them at sea — and today it shelters something else.
Sea turtles come here to lay their eggs in season, notably in Galeão bay. It is not a show put on for visitors: it is a phenomenon you observe, at night, in a small group, and only if you disturb nothing.
The Fundação Maio Biodiversidade looks after it. This campaigning association regularly organises beach clean-ups and raises awareness among residents of the importance of protecting the nesting sites. In 2018 it started a training programme for ecotourism guides — so that the people who accompany visitors to the nesting sites are local.
A village on the east coast.
Zone 3
The east coast
Pedro VazPraia da LagoaMonte Penosohoney
From Pedro Vaz to Ribeira Dom João, the road follows the coast and skirts the island's "highest" peaks — Monte Penoso (437 m), Monte Forte (313 m) and Monte Batalha (294 m). This zone is a little greener and a little less hot than the west coast.
The east coast stroll
about 15 km between villages+ 11 km to Vila do Maio
This is the most enjoyable outing on the island, and it asks for nothing but time. Take it: this walk is above all a chance to meet islanders proud of their traditions, which is the real reason to come to Maio.
Pedro Vaz and its hidden beach
north-east1.5 km trackdangerous swimming
Like most villages in the archipelago built along a road — here lined with coconut palms — this one offers a motley mix of pretty coloured houses, unfinished ones, and others that are clearly abandoned. The vast majority of residents live from livestock farming and also produce honey.
They may seem reserved at first, but trust builds fairly quickly. You can then get someone to guide you to the small beach below the village, at the end of a rather steep track of about 1.5 km. The spot is exceptionally beautiful, set in a deep bay with a wide ribbon of pristine sand.
ButBecause of the very strong winds and currents, swimming is dangerous and you will only meet fishermen. It is, however, a superb place for a picnic while gazing at the vastness of the ocean.
Ribeira Dom João and Praia da Lagoa
16 km eastswimming and diving
A very beautiful beach: white sand hugs a rocky coast that forms a half-moon, swimming is delightful and diving enthusiasts will be happy in the crystal-clear sea.
The village itself has no particular charm. Even so, you would be making a mistake not to get to know its very hospitable residents. Try their homemade bread and goat's cheese — you will remember them for a long time.
Alcatraz and Pilão Cão
16 km north-easton the road south
You can't avoid these villages: they sit right in the middle of the route south. The landscapes here are fairly monotonous — a vast expanse of ochre stones whose dust blows everywhere and colours the houses. From time to time, goats appear from nowhere and cross the road, when they don't simply stop on it.
And yet it was around here that the very first village on Maio was built, when the island began to be settled in the 17th century. The only trace of that distant era is a small church you can make out on the heights.
The map that actually helps
Vila do Maio, street by street
All the island's addresses are here, and almost all of them are on Avenida Amílcar Cabral. Here are the landmarks and the places to eat — the numbers refer to the entries further down.
Show
Eat Drink & go out Culture Services & shops Landmark
A useful noteThe points are placed according to the street given in the guidebook, to the nearest neighbourhood. You can walk across Vila do Maio in fifteen minutes: the map is there to help you understand how the town is laid out, not to navigate to the metre.
On the ground
What you come here to do
Maio doesn't offer much, and that is exactly the point. What there is to do here means getting up early, walking, or waiting for night — three things the rest of the archipelago doesn't ask of you.
When to go
What depends on the season
On Maio, two events are worth planning your dates around, and they don't fall at the same time: the salt harvest in spring, and the turtle nesting at the end of summer.
The compromiseIf you want both, go in June: the end of the salt harvest overlaps with the start of the nesting season. It is also the month when the heat starts to rise — set off early in the morning for anything done on foot.
Our addresses
Where to eat, drink and bring something back
Let's say it straight away: the island has very few addresses, and almost all of them are in Vila do Maio, on the same avenue. The list is short because reality is.
About these addresses
These addresses are landmarks taken from travel guidebooks, not places tested on the spot. Opening hours and phone numbers are deliberately left out: they are the details that go out of date fastest, so check them before you go.
The recipe
Pudim de queijo
Serves 4 to 6 · chilling time essential
You'll need
1 tin of condensed milk
2 tins of milk — use the condensed milk tin as a measure
4 eggs
100 g grated goat's cheese
liquid caramel
How to make it
Preheat the oven.
Blend the condensed milk and the eggs, then add the milk.
Add the cheese and blend briefly, just enough to get a smooth consistency.
Coat the mould with caramel and pour the mixture over it.
Bake at 140°C in a bain-marie for about 50 minutes.
Let it cool completely, then chill in the fridge for a few hours before serving.
Goat's cheese is what sets this Cape Verdean flan apart from the classic Portuguese pudim: it adds a salty edge that stands up to the caramel. On Maio, you will be served it without warning at the end of a meal.
Before you go
What to prepare
Give up on the car
The guidebook says it bluntly: hiring a car isn't the best option, given how hard it is to find your way around and the poor state of the tracks. Aluguers leave from behind the post office, the petrol station and the airport.
Cash
Just one bank with a cash machine, in the centre of Vila do Maio near the church square. Withdraw as soon as you arrive: once you head up towards Calheta or the east coast, there is nothing left.
Water and sun
The island is flat, dry, and shade is scarce. Whether you walk to Morro, to Calheta or towards Praia da Soca, the rule is the same: sun protection and far more water than you think you need.
A guide for the north
The beaches of the Parque Natural do Norte are hard to reach and almost impossible to get to alone. Book the guide in advance, in Vila do Maio or Morrinho — not the same morning.
Swimming
The open beaches of the north and east are effectively off-limits because of the currents. Swim in the bays: Calheta, Morro, Praia da Lagoa. Bitche Rotcha is fine, but the rollers can be violent there.
Leave plenty of margin on dates
As everywhere in the archipelago, inter-island connections depend on the weather and on how full they are. Keep a spare day before an international flight — especially on the way home.
There is almost nothing to do on Maio. It is the only island in Cape Verde where that is a selling point.