Epiphany, truly celebrated in only three villages in the east of the island: João Galego, Cabeça dos Tarafes and Fundo das Figueira. Musicians go from house to house to play and improvise.
The practical notebook · Everything you need to know
Where to stay in Cape Verde:
the practical notebook
Budget, entry requirements, getting between the islands, money, health, safety, the festival calendar and accommodation. It is all here, sorted into eight tabs: click the one that matters to you and the answer appears without thirty screens of scrolling.
GMT-1time zone
110escudos to €1
30days visa-free
4international airports
15%VAT
132police number
A country scattered across nine inhabited islands is not planned like an ordinary destination: every journey is a flight or a crossing, every island has its own rules, and some things (water, emergency help, cash withdrawals) are better known before you arrive than after. This notebook gathers all of it.
What this notebook covers
- 01Before you goBudget, entry requirements, insurance, when to go, climate and official contacts.
- 02Getting aroundGetting there, hopping between islands, hiring a car, understanding the aluguer.
- 03On the groundMoney, opening hours, post, food, health, water, safety, emergencies.
- 04Sports & leisureSwimming, diving, hiking, kit, board sports, crafts.
- 05Where to stayThe four types of accommodation, the tourist tax, and 28 addresses in the north.
- 06CalendarFestivals month by month and national public holidays.
- 07SotaventoSantiago, Maio, Fogo and Brava: 30 addresses in the south and what changes there.
- 08Glossary189 searchable Creole words, with pronunciation.
Before you go
What to sort out from home: a realistic budget, the compulsory online registration, insurance, and choosing your dates.
Budget
The cost of living in Cape Verde is roughly half what it is in France. Be aware, though, that some places on the beach-resort or heavily touristed islands can charge prices close to those of big European cities.
Daily budget for two people
€60–75A night in a pension or small hotel, and one local meal.
€80–125Good-standard accommodation and restaurant.
€200–250A boutique hotel and a few of the archipelago's most popular tables.
In short, for an eight-day stay, budget between €480 on a backpacker basis and €1,200. The cost of excursions, sporting activities, car hire, nights out and getting between the islands, by ferry or by plane, comes on top, and that last item adds up fast.
The price bands used in our island guides
| Symbol | Eating out | Accommodation |
|---|---|---|
| € | under 800 CVE | under 4,500 CVE |
| €€ | 800 to 2,000 CVE | 4,500 to 8,000 CVE |
| €€€ | over 2,000 CVE | over 8,000 CVE |
The two taxes not to forget
A tourist tax of 276 CVE (about €2.50) per person per day is added to the room rate, for a maximum of ten consecutive days. And VAT is 15%, which is not always included in the prices displayed.
Ways to pay
Not every establishment accepts international bank cards, and when they do, it is Visa and Mastercard only. Plan ahead: most spending and purchases are made in cash, especially in the most remote areas.
You will have no trouble finding cash machines in the main towns. But withdrawals are capped at 20,000 CVE a day, and bank charges are fairly high: between €2 and €9 per transaction. Check with your bank before you leave, and make fewer, larger withdrawals rather than many small ones.
Entry requirements
Passport and online registration
The Cape Verdean authorities require a passport valid for at least six months after the planned end of your stay. EU and Swiss citizens are exempt from a visa for short stays of up to thirty days.
However, an online procedure is compulsory: you must register on the official portal up to five days before departure and pay an airport security tax (TSA) of 3,400 CVE, about €30.
Prepare before you start Make sure you have everything the form asks for (passport number, flight details, address of your accommodation) before you open it. The procedure is done on ease.gov.cv and does not like going back and forth.
Insurance
Travel insurance is recommended to cover any eventuality: trip cancellation, lost or stolen luggage, illness or accident, and, where needed, medical assistance with reimbursement of costs and repatriation.
First check whether it is already included in your bank card insurance. If so, take care to pay for your tickets and car hire by card once you are there, otherwise the cover does not apply. Airlines and travel agencies also offer insurance-and-assistance policies.
The point that often catches people out Make sure the so-called "risk" sports, diving and hiking, are covered. Many standard policies exclude them, and they are precisely the two flagship activities of the archipelago.
Vaccinations
No vaccination is required, with one exception: if you are arriving from Senegal, a yellow fever vaccination is compulsory.
Customs
There are no particular restrictions on the non-commercial import of goods. On the way home, watch the limits if you bring back alcohol: 4 litres of wine, plus 1 litre of spirits over 22% or 2 litres under 22%, which allows two litres of grogue. For tobacco, the limit is 200 cigarettes.
Time difference
Cape Verde runs on GMT −1, and the clocks do not change. The difference with France is therefore −2h in winter and −3h in summer. When it is noon in Paris, it is 10:00 in Praia in winter and 09:00 in summer.
When to go
The islands receive visitors all year round, and few establishments have high- and low-season rates. Prices rise mainly at New Year, during the Mindelo carnival or at a major festival, mostly in hotels.
The real calendar constraint Booking domestic flights and accommodation is strongly recommended from June to August, when Cape Verdeans from the diaspora come home for the holidays and the inter-island planes fill up.
The climate in one table
These averages show the general pattern; for the coming days, the seven-day island-by-island forecasts are more useful.
Tourist season all year round. Dry season from January to June, rainy season from July to December, although in Cape Verde "rainy season" is very relative.
| Boa Vista | Praia (Santiago) | Sal | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Min./max. temp. in February | 22 / 24 °C | 19 / 25 °C | 20 / 23 °C |
| Min./max. temp. in August | 27 / 31 °C | 24 / 29 °C | 25 / 30 °C |
| Rainfall in February | 3% | 0% | 0% |
| Rainfall in August | 11% | 8% | 6% |
| Sunshine in February | 9 h/day | 8 h/day | 9 h/day |
| Sunshine in August | 13 h/day | 6 h/day | 12 h/day |
| Sea temperature in February | 23 °C | 23 °C | 23 °C |
| Sea temperature in August | 27 °C | 27 °C | 26 °C |
Tourist information and official contacts
There is no official tourist board, either abroad or in the islands. On the most touristy islands you will find information kiosks, at the airport or in town; the one at the Porto Novo ferry terminal, on Santo Antão, is particularly useful for walkers.
To prepare your trip from home: the Ministry of Tourism website (turismo.cv), available in French, English and Portuguese, or privately run sites that are regularly updated, mindelo.info, very thorough and with a forum, and capeverde.com, in English.
On the ground
French Embassy in Cape Verde
Rua Tenente Valadim 28, Platô district, Praia (Santiago).
cv.ambafrance.org
In France
Embassy of Cape Verde
3, rue de Rigny, 75008 Paris.
In France
Cape Verde Consulate in Marseille
7, rue Félix-Éboué, place Sadi Carnot, 13002 Marseille.
consulatducapvert.comGetting around
A country of nine inhabited islands is a country where every journey has to be planned. Here is how to get there, how to move from one island to another, and how to get around once you are there.
Getting to Cape Verde
Four islands have an international airport: Boa Vista (Aristides Pereira), Sal (Amílcar Cabral), São Vicente (Cesária Évora) and Santiago (Nelson Mandela). Your choice of point of entry shapes the whole rest of your itinerary.
Most flights from Europe stop over in Portugal. Allow 7h30 to 12h30 of travel, or more: 2h to 2h30 from Paris to Porto or Lisbon, then 4h to 4h30 from Portugal to Cape Verde. The price of a return ticket varies enormously by airline and date: from France, budget between €330 and €800.
Direct flight
Cabo Verde Airlines
The national airline, flying from Paris-Charles de Gaulle to Cape Verde.
caboverdeairlines.com
Stopover in Portugal
TAP Air Portugal
A daily flight from Paris-Orly with a stopover in Lisbon or Porto, then a daily connection to one of the four international airports.
Return from €500 · flytap.com
Stopover in Casablanca
Royal Air Maroc
Scheduled flights several times a week from Paris to Praia, via Casablanca.
royalairmaroc.comOther airlines, such as Transavia, fly to the various airports in Cape Verde. From Paris or the big provincial cities you will also find plenty of charter or low-cost flights, which is often where the good fares are.
Getting from island to island
Seven islands are linked by air: Santiago, Sal, Fogo, Boa Vista, São Vicente, Maio and São Nicolau. Two islands can be reached only by boat: Santo Antão, from São Vicente, and Brava, from Fogo. There are also ferry services from Santiago to São Nicolau, São Vicente, Fogo and Brava.
By plane
The national airline connects these seven islands several times a day or week, with or without a stopover. Return fares range from €40 to around €150. An important point if you are planning a grand tour: there is no "inter-island pass", and each journey is paid for separately.
By ferry
The inter-island ferry company runs the crossings. Tickets are bought at its offices, at the ferry terminals of Porto Novo (Santo Antão) and Mindelo (São Vicente), and at the port of Praia (Santiago).
The habit to adopt Check the timetable the day before you travel. Crossings change with the state of the sea, and information does not circulate online the way it does in Europe.
On the road
The quality and density of the road network vary a great deal from one island to another. Most of the time you will be driving on paved roads that are more or less well maintained.
You will face various hazards, though not the ones you might expect: an animal suddenly darting out, a speed bump made invisible by the glare of the sun, an aluguer braking in front of you without warning. Wherever possible, avoid ending up behind a lorry, especially on sloping roads, and there are plenty of those in Cape Verde.
Hiring a car
Depending on which islands you visit and the kind of trip you have in mind, hiring a car is sometimes necessary, especially to explore the interior. This is the case on Boa Vista, Sal, São Vicente and Santiago. By contrast, it is firmly discouraged on Santo Antão and Fogo, where the mountain roads demand a level of skill few visitors have.
Book a 4×4 if you can, especially on Boa Vista and Sal, where some tracks are particularly bumpy. Rates range from €45 to €75 a day with unlimited mileage. Add a deposit, usually to be paid in cash, of between €150 and €300.
A few car hire firms we spotted, island by island
Boa VistaMorena Travel Agency & Rent Car
A travel agency that doubles as a car hire firm, in Sal Rei, near the Santa Isabel church.
Small 4×4s from 5,000 CVE/dayBoa Vista · SalMendes et Mendes
On both islands, with a desk at Sal Rei airport and an office on the hotel avenue in Santa Maria.
Small 4×4s from 5,500 CVE/dayBoa VistaLa Perla
On the municipal esplanade of Largo Santa Isabel, in Sal Rei.
Small 4×4s from 5,500 CVE/daySalHertz
A desk in the airport hall and an office in Santa Maria. Pick-ups and 4×4s.
From 6,000 CVE a day · deposit 30,000 CVESão VicenteOcidente Rent-a-Car
Probably the best rates on the island, and a varied fleet: Fiat Panda, Suzuki Jimny, Toyota 4×4s. The deposit can be paid by bank card, which is rare.
From 3,750 to 5,000 CVE/day · Praça Dom Luís, MindeloSão VicenteAtlantic Car Mindelo
A multilingual team, French included, and accommodating: it accepts late returns as long as you let them know.
4,600 to 5,500 CVE/day · deposit 11,000 CVE in cashSão VicenteTransmello
Online booking, delivery of the vehicle to the airport, and drop-off possible at the Santo Antão office, for which a ferry transfer can be arranged.
transmello.cv · Bela Vista, MindeloSão Vicente · Santiago · SalAlucar
One of the best-regarded in the archipelago, notably for the speed and efficiency of its service. From city cars to 4×4s and pick-ups.
From 5,300 CVE/day (city car), 10,000 CVE (SUV)Santo AntãoPegaso Rent-a-Car
A French-speaking firm based at the Porto Novo ferry terminal, which also gives precious driving tips before letting you loose on the island.
Suzuki Jimny 5,500 CVE, Duster 7,200 CVE · deposit 22,200 CVE in cashSanto AntãoTrans Calu — chez Flavia
A guesthouse in the Vale do Paul that mainly offers transport services: a private vehicle for the day, transfers from Porto Novo, and a French-speaking tour guide.
Transfer 4,400 CVE · day 11,200 CVE · guide from 7,200 CVESantiagoCaetano
French-speaking staff, good at advising on SUV, 4×4 or city car.
From 4,500 CVE/day · Achada Grande Trás, PraiaSantiagoSimplyCar
One of the few agencies on the island that also hires out scooters.
Scooter 3,499 CVE/day · Avenida São Vicente, PraiaSantiago · FogoIntercidades
Large fleet and a desk at Praia airport. On Fogo, a good choice of 4×4s for the mountain drives.
City car from 4,500 CVE/day · 4×4 on Fogo from 6,500 CVESão NicolauMonte Gordo Rent-a-Car
City cars and 4×4s, in Ribeira Brava. One of the only motorised options on the island.
From 5,500 CVE/day · deposit 33,000 CVESão NicolauLebome
More of a tourism agency than a car hire firm: excursions on request, including a tour of the island.
Excursions from 6,000 CVEWhat we do not list No phone numbers and no opening hours: they are the details that go out of date fastest, and republishing them stale helps nobody. Prices are indicative and need confirming when you book.
Aluguers and taxis
Aluguers, also called colectivos, are the cheapest way to get around: these minibuses link villages, some of them very remote, for a trifling price.
But if you take them, make sure you have all the time in the world, and forget any idea of comfort. This mode of transport is usually exhausting. So you will prefer a taxi or a hire car, except on islands such as Maio, Brava or São Nicolau, where you will have no other choice.
Aluguer: what is it? The word is a generic term meaning "for hire". The aluguer, the shared minibus or pick-up taxi that links towns, is a practical and sociable way to travel: a kind of shared taxi that leaves when it is full. So no timetable, just filling up.
On the ground
Money, opening hours, food, water, safety and emergency numbers. The section to read once, before you arrive.
Money
The currency
The national currency is the Cape Verdean escudo (CVE). On some very touristy islands you can pay for purchases or taxi rides in euros. Coins are accepted, and change can be given in euros if you prefer.
Changing money
The exchange rate is about €1 to 110 CVE, so 1 CVE is a little under one euro cent (a rate noted in July 2024, to be rechecked before you leave). For Swiss francs, allow about 114 CVE, and for Canadian dollars about 74 CVE.
Money can only be changed on the islands themselves. Every international airport has a bureau de change, but the rates there are poor: prefer the bank counter if it is open when you arrive. Whatever you do, avoid changing money on the street.
Tipping
Tips make up a good part of the very low wages of hotel, restaurant and bar staff. Any gesture will be appreciated, and how much to give is left to you.
Opening hours
Banks & government officesMonday to Friday, 08:00 to 15:00.
ShopsMonday to Saturday, 08:00 to 19:00.
Tourist areasLonger hours, until 22:00, and on Sundays.
VillagesA break at lunchtime is the rule.
MuseumsMonday to Friday, 08:30–12:30 and 14:30–17:00 or 17:30.
Post
There is at least one post office on each island, with varying hours: 08:00–13:00, 08:00–15:00 or 08:00–17:00 depending on the place. Given the almost constant crowds, a tip: buy your stamps (selos) and postcards (cartões postais) in souvenir shops or hotels rather than at the counter.
For Europe, allow at least two weeks for your mail to arrive.
Eating out
The choice is proportional to the level of tourist development on each island. Except in the very touristy areas, where you will find restaurants aimed at an international clientele, the menus in most restaurants, lanchonetes and churrasqueiras are not very varied. The cooking is heavily influenced by Portugal and West Africa.
At any hour of the day or evening you will have a choice between cachupa, the national dish, and grilled meats, sometimes with goat stew too. Some places charge high prices, but in general meals are fairly affordable: between 500 and 1,500 CVE.
Two things to know The food can be very salty. And the service is very slow, so bear in mind the national motto, "no stress". A few seasonal dishes push up the bill, such as lobster: it is only eaten between December and April, unless you are willing to accept frozen.
Health and precautions
The islands present no particular health risk. Each island has at least one hospital or health centre and a pharmacy.
Heat and sun
A high-protection sunscreen is essential, even and especially under a hazy sun, along with a hat, cap or scarf.
Beware of dehydration. When it is above 25 °C the body needs 2 litres of water; above 30 °C, at least 3 litres, and 5 litres if you are exercising. The basic rule: drink before you are thirsty, and preferably drink warm, as the body absorbs it better.
Water
The absolute rule Never drink tap water, not even to brush your teeth. Also avoid ice cubes and water ices and, as far as possible, raw vegetables if you are not sure what water they were washed in. Bottled water is available everywhere, even in the grocery shops of the most remote villages.
Safety
As in any country, take care in urban centres and in busy places such as markets. Bag-snatching is not unusual in Mindelo or Praia. Police patrols run day and night throughout the archipelago.
As for so-called "risk" activities, stay careful: do not play the adventurer by swimming in areas known to be dangerous. For excursions and some hikes, it is better to be accompanied by local guides. Worth reading before you leave: the "travel advice" tab of the diplomatie.gouv.fr website.
Phone
International calls
To call Cape Verde from abroad: dial 00, then 238 (the country code), then the number.
To call abroad from Cape Verde: dial 00, then the country code (33 for France, 32 for Belgium, 41 for Switzerland, 1 for Canada), then the number without the initial 0, except for Canada and mobile numbers.
Local calls
Within the islands, dial the 7 digits of the number. Landlines start with 2, mobiles with 9 or 5.
Your mobile phone
Avoid using your own mobile network while you are there. Simply buy a local SIM card, for around a euro, which gives you access to a well-developed network, and top up with the amount of credit that suits your needs. On sale everywhere: grocery shops, other shops, supermarkets.
Emergencies
Police132 — dial from a local phone.
Fire brigade131 — dial from a local phone.
The most important point on this page There are no emergency rescue services as such in Cape Verde, and no mountain rescue. That is what makes prevention so decisive: always tell someone your route before you set off walking, and do not go alone on exposed trails.
Sports & leisure
The islands suit lazing on the beach as much as outdoor activities. Competition between providers is fierce, which works in your favour.
Swimming
The winds blow very hard in the archipelago: stay careful even on well-sheltered beaches. In the water, avoid turning your back on the sea, as a big roller can arrive in no time.
Santo Antão, Fogo, Brava and São Nicolau have few accessible beaches, and most of those are too dangerous for swimming. In every case, always ask the locals, and watch them when you are somewhere quiet: if they are not swimming, there is a reason.
Fishing and diving
Cape Verde offers plenty of scope for diving, turtle watching and sport fishing. Even so, some islands are better suited than others depending on the activity.
SnorkellingBest on Boa Vista and São Vicente.
Sport fishingSão Nicolau, Sal and Santiago are better suited.
PricesThey vary with the type of trip: ask for a quote before committing.
Hiking
Hiking and trekking are the flagship activities of the archipelago, particularly on the mountainous islands: São Nicolau, Santiago, Brava, Santo Antão and Fogo. The last two are even described as walkers' El Dorados, with plenty of walking guides and suitable accommodation along the routes.
The advice that matters
Take suitable kit, avoid hiking alone, and always tell someone close to you your planned route. Take a guide in some areas.
The eighteen routes described in the island guides are brought together, compared and profiled in the Cape Verde hiking catalogue: distances, elevation gain, real difficulty and how to do each one. Before you leave, order the hiking maps of the various islands published by AB Kartenverlag from a bookshop; on the islands you will find them at the information kiosks.
Kit, item by item
FootwearGood shoes are essential. Optionally, walking poles for the sometimes considerable elevation changes.
ClothingBreathable clothes are a plus. Add a waterproof, windproof jacket: at altitude the temperature drops quickly.
Backpack10 to 30 litres for a day, 35 litres at most: enough for a water bottle and any picnic.
Sun protectionHat and sunglasses (category 3 lenses minimum), and factor 50 sunscreen. Indispensable.
TorchTo avoid trouble if night catches you out: it falls quickly and without any dusk.
Bin bagTo collect the leftovers from your meals. Nobody picks up after you here.
BinocularsFor your wildlife watching, birds in particular.
Hiking safely Be prepared on trails that are very exposed to the sun or very arid: carry enough water. And the essential point, which cannot be repeated too often: tell at least one person when you set off hiking.
Board sports
Sal is paradise for board-sports fans, but you can also indulge your passion for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing on Boa Vista, on São Vicente and, to a lesser extent, on Santiago.
The ideal season runs from November to March.
Shopping and crafts
On Boa Vista, Sal, São Vicente, Santiago and Fogo, a few campaigning shops sell local crafts: ceramics (a Boa Vista speciality), basketry, weaving, and objects made from recycled materials.
Food and drink make the most authentic souvenirs, and your purchases will support the local economy: papaya, quince, mango or guava jams, wine and coffee from Fogo, or grogue from Santo Antão.
What you can bring back Customs allow 2 litres of grogue (spirits under 22%), or 1 litre above 22%, plus 4 litres of wine. Enough to bring back a bottle from each island.
Where to stay
Accommodation is spread very unevenly across the islands: a rich choice on Sal, Boa Vista, Santiago and São Vicente, far thinner elsewhere.
The four types of Cape Verde accommodation
Pensions and guesthouses
By far the cheapest option, though comfort can be relative. You will have no great difficulty finding them in Cape Verde, even in the most remote places.
Book well in advance, by email or by phone. These places are often family homes, and you can count on a warm, personal welcome. It is the type of stay that makes the difference between visiting an island and meeting it.
Hotels and resorts
Competition is fierce between the luxury resorts and other holiday-club hotels that have invaded the seaside resorts. They offer all-inclusive packages by the week, but depending on the time of year bookings by the night are possible.
Conventional hotels are on the rise, even if the rates are sometimes high for what you get.
Rentals
In recent years, estate agencies have appeared in the islands. They are still concentrated either on the busiest islands, Boa Vista or Sal, or on those barely touched by tourism, such as Maio.
Note too that rental or "stay with a local" listings, no more expensive than a hotel, are multiplying on the international platforms.
What gets added to the bill
Tourist tax276 CVE (about €2.50) per person per day, for a maximum of 10 consecutive days.
VAT15%, and not always included in the prices displayed: ask whether the quoted rate is net.
€ bandUnder 4,500 CVE a night.
€€ band4,500 to 8,000 CVE a night.
€€€ bandOver 8,000 CVE a night.
Barlavento, the windward islands
A tight selection, island by island: what stands out for its location, its welcome or its value for money, rather than the full list. Rates are starting prices for a double room and shift from one season to the next, so check them when you book.
Boa Vista
The choice is rich in Sal Rei, and two addresses clearly stand out elsewhere on the island. The beaches, dunes and town are covered in the Boa Vista guide.
Sal Rei · €€
Ca' Nicola Aparthotel
This aparthotel has some thirty upmarket units, decorated with a mix of local crafts and bamboo furniture. Each has a terrace opening onto the ocean. Excursions with a French-speaking guide are possible.
2-person apartment from 7,500 CVE, breakfast included · paid WiFi · 150 m from the beach, Praia do Estoril
Sal Rei · €€
Hotel Ouril-Aguéda
Some thirty rooms with three-star comfort, almost all opening onto the beach and the sea. The real draw is on the roof: a 360° bar-terrace and an open-air freshwater pool.
Double 7,525 CVE, breakfast included · Praia do Estoril
Sal Rei · €€
Hotel Dunas
A modern hotel of excellent value. Twenty functional rooms, with a fan or air conditioning depending on the room, a lovely seafront terrace and a patio where breakfast is served.
Double 7,500 CVE, breakfast included · Avenida Amílcar Cabral
Sal Rei · €€€
Orquídea Guesthouse
An imposing guesthouse with stone architecture. Its ten rooms, generously sized and quietly elegant, each have a shower room, minibar, air conditioning and television. Breakfast is served in a garden full of flowers.
Double from 13,000 CVE in high season, 11,500 CVE in low · 50 m from the beach, Praia do Estoril
Sal Rei · €€€
Migrante Guesthouse
A journey back in time: this sobrado, a beautifully restored colonial townhouse, arranges four rooms around a flower-filled patio. Four-poster beds, mosquito nets, and every comfort besides.
Double about 11,000 CVE · closed May to October · Avenida Amílcar Cabral
Espingueira · €€€
Spinguera Eco-lodge
An eco-lodge designed with the environment in mind, powered mainly by renewable energy. The rooms and communal areas, deliberately pared back, are spread across ten small houses and give off a zen atmosphere. This committed luxury comes at a price.
Double from 21,000 CVE, breakfast included · 17 km west of Sal ReiSal
Santa Maria has almost everything, from the family-run sobrado to the five-star with a water park. What there is to see beyond the beach is in the Sal guide.
Santa Maria · €€
Hotel MiraBela
This big colonial house, a sobrado, has ten bright, fully equipped rooms, each with its own balcony. A detail that matters here: a room for storing surf gear. Friendly welcome and helpful staff. Formerly Hotel Les Alizés.
Double from 5,700 CVE, breakfast included · Rua 1 de Junho, 50 m from the beach
Santa Maria · €€
Hotel Pontao
At the entrance to town, a modern 83-room hotel with functional comfort (air conditioning, minibar, satellite TV) spread over two floors around a pool. Each room has its own small terrace.
Double from 7,000 CVE · sun loungers, jacuzzi and a small gym on the roof · Rua Amílcar Cabral
Santa Maria · €€€
Hotel Morabeza
Opened in 1967, Sal's "historic" hotel was first conceived as the second home of a wealthy Belgian family before being extended over the years. It now has 121 rooms and suites, three bars and three restaurants, amid lush gardens, with a pool overlooking the beach.
Double from 14,200 CVE · Rua 1 de Junho
Santa Maria · €€€
Hotel da Luz
Contemporary architecture dressed all in white. The rooms are spacious and bright; the lovely pool and natural-wood terrace do the rest.
Double from 8,300 CVE, breakfast included · Zona Tanquinho Norte
Santa Maria · €€€
Villa Ao Mar
Fourteen fully equipped apartments, all with rooms facing Santa Maria beach and its emblematic pier. The view is the real luxury of this address.
From 10,600 CVE · on the beach, left of the pierSão Nicolau
A rural island where accommodation is split between Ribeira Brava, the capital, and Tarrafal, the port. The São Nicolau guide covers Monte Gordo, the Seminary and the hamlets of the Fajã.
Ribeira Brava · €
Pensão Santo António
This pretty blue building has a prime view over the heart of town. Fifteen spacious, comfortable rooms, air-conditioned and with satellite TV. The welcome is warm and breakfast generous; you can even have cachupa with a fried egg.
Double from 4,000 CVE, breakfast included · Terreiro
Ribeira Brava · €
Residencial Jardim
Ten air-conditioned rooms that are spotlessly clean, and breakfasts served on a panoramic terrace overlooking the town and the mountains. Restaurant and laundry service; the owners, who speak French, help set up excursions.
Double from 4,000 CVE, breakfast included · bank cards accepted · Chãzinha
Ribeira Brava · €€
Bela Sombra
Ideally placed in the town centre, this unabashedly seventies-style hotel has some twenty rooms over three floors, in bright colours and with simple comfort. The restaurant of the same name, right next door, is worth a detour.
Double 4,500 CVE, breakfast included · Rua Baltazar Lopes da Silva
Tarrafal · €
Residencial Alice
Fifteen immaculately kept rooms on Tedja beach. Some have only a fan and no hot water, others air conditioning and hot water, and the price gap follows. Meals on request. Excellent value for money.
Double from 2,300 CVE (fan) or 3,800 CVE (air conditioning) · Avenida Assis Cardorio
Tarrafal · €
Zena Star
Impossible to miss with its shimmering façade, this residence matches its jovial owner. Six apartments of 50 to 90 m², all with a wide terrace overlooking the landing stage, one or two bedrooms and a living room.
From 3,850 CVE for 2 people · Ribeira do Pescador
Tarrafal · €
Casa Aquario
A pension set on the beach, ten minutes from the centre. Rustic, but the setting is pleasant and the little eating area is worth it: a covered terrace, sea views, and dishes under 500 CVE cooked by a long-settled Dutchman.
Room from 3,500 CVE · Alto CalhetaSão Vicente
Everything happens in Mindelo, between the colonial houses of the historic quarter and the hotels perched on the heights. The São Vicente guide walks the town street by street, from carnival to morna.
Mindelo · €
Solar Windelo
What view did Vasco Martins have of Mindelo? You will enjoy the same picture: this house was long the home of the Cape Verdean composer and performer. The sunsets from the terrace are magnificent. Rooms, suites and studios, with sliding rates from four nights.
Double from 3,300 CVE, breakfast included · Alto Santo António
Mindelo · €€
Pensão Loutcha
The main asset of Nha Loutcha's pension is its welcome and the availability of the staff. At the crossing of two big avenues in the historic quarter, the house has 24 air-conditioned rooms and 5 suites, plus 5 rooms with fans for the tightest budgets.
Double 4,600 CVE, suite 6,800 CVE · Rua da Coco
Mindelo · €€
Casa Café Mindelo
This fully restored former colonial house has real character: floorboards and woodwork, harmonious colours, linen bedspreads embroidered with West African motifs or Indian prints, contemporary or exotic furniture. Very good value for money.
Standard double from 4,675 CVE, breakfast included · Rua Governador Calheiros
Mindelo · €€€
Terra Lodge
Ultra-contemporary, with fine materials but also remarkable eco-design: passive cooling, water recycling. A dozen bright rooms each opening onto a terrace, a patio with a small pool, and a panoramic roof terrace where excellent breakfasts are served.
Double from 9,900 CVE, breakfast included · Alto Santo António
Mindelo · €€€
Hotel Oásis Porto Grande
Its forecourt hosts part of the carnival festivities every year. Top-end standard, very modern facilities, and a concert every evening on the terrace below, which looks onto Praça Amílcar Cabral. The poolside rooms are quieter.
Double from 14,000 CVE, breakfast included · Praça Amílcar Cabral
Mindelo · €€€
Blue Marlin Hotel
On the heights of Mindelo, 22 rooms with a balcony and a view over the bay. Pool, spas, gym and restaurant.
Double from 9,200 CVE, breakfast included · Alto São Nicolau, 5 min from the portSanto Antão
The walkers' island: here you choose where to stay first by the valley you want to sleep in. Many guesthouses are run by European-Cape Verdean couples, often French-speaking. The island's four zones and their trails are detailed in the Santo Antão guide.
Cova · Estrada Corda · €€
Casa Espongeiro
Run by a Belgian-Cape Verdean couple, this guesthouse is perched at 1,400 m on the Estrada Corda, near the Cova crater. Four cosy rooms with panoramic views, and two more of standard size, smaller, whose bathroom is outside.
"Comfort" double 6,600 CVE, breakfast included · dinner 1,400 CVE
Ribeira do Paúl · €€
Casa das Ilhas
The inn of a Flemish-French couple: two 25 m² family rooms, a 50 m² two-bedroom apartment, and six double rooms. All with private bathrooms, hot water, and a terrace with a breathtaking view over the Paúl valley.
Double from 4,500 CVE, breakfast included · dinner 1,200 CVE, packed lunch 500 CVE · Lombo Comprido
Ribeira Grande · €€
Pousada Green Place
A haven of peace with a panoramic view of the mountains, and a pool facing that landscape. The very good food is prepared with local produce and vegetables from the garden. Ideally placed at the start of the Chã de Pedras walks.
Double from 5,400 CVE, breakfast included · dishes from 700 to 1,600 CVE · Fajã de Coculi, 5.7 km from Ribeira Grande
Ponta do Sol · €€
Casa d'Mar
A guesthouse near the old port, run by a Canadian-Cape Verdean couple who have fitted out five rooms in a large house. Excellent value for money, breakfast of local produce.
Double 4,500 CVE, triple 5,500 CVE, breakfast included · Rua Maria Violante
Chã de Igreja · €€
Kasa d'Igreja
A Frenchwoman keen on trekking created this little paradise in the heart of the Igreja valley. The eco-lodge is laid out in stone-and-wood cottages and four lovely tents, with shared sanitary facilities. Pool, and meals made from produce from the vegetable garden.
Double half board 9,900 CVE · tent for 2 people, breakfast and half board 7,000 CVE
Ribeira das Patas · €€
Quinta Cochete
A farming estate in the heart of the Ribeira das Patas, restored by a couple who, with the help of the villagers, rebuilt the planting terraces, built a reservoir and installed drip irrigation. Five rooms, a pool, and meals made from the property's own produce.
Double from 7,500 CVE, breakfast included · full meal 1,500 CVE, packed lunch 650 CVE
Paúl · €€
Luz d'Sol — Residencial Familiar
A well-placed family residence, close to public transport. The accommodation is modern and the welcome warm: you feel at home.
Double from 5,500 CVE · Cidade das Pombas, Chã de MargaridaWhat this selection does not tell you The rates are those noted in the guidebooks and change quickly; so does availability, especially in high season. Write to or phone the establishment directly to confirm the price, the package and the accepted method of payment, as many small places still operate in cash only. The leeward islands have their own tab, Sotavento.
Calendar
Nearly every island has its carnival, its patron saint's festival and its music festival. If your dates are flexible, build around them: it is the best time to see the country come alive.
Festivals, month by month
January
The anniversary of the discovery of the island and of the celebration of the first mass, in 1462. The festivities are mainly concentrated in Ribeira Grande.
February – March
Three days of friendly festivities. The little square in front of the cathedral turns into a real miniature Brazilian "sambodrome".
The best known in the islands. The festivities begin on a Sunday and end with a giant parade on Shrove Tuesday, in the purest tradition of Brazilian carnivals.
A big parade to the sound of drums and other instruments to celebrate Saint Joseph, patron of this fishing village in the west of the island.
An event promoting traditional Cape Verdean music, the "three rhythms": batuka, funaná and tabanka. Near Pedra Badejo, on the east coast.
April – May
Jazz musicians from Cape Verde, Africa, the Indian Ocean and the Caribbean.
One of the town's oldest events: a procession behind the flag and the saint, concerts, horse races. It draws thousands of people, including many Cape Verdeans from the diaspora who come specially.
A festival of religious inspiration: long hours of dancing and processions through Rabil. It commemorates both the freeing of the slaves and the discovery of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem.
According to legend, a saint was washed up on Varadinha beach, taken in by the villagers and then chosen as patron saint. Mass, family meals, then processions and dancing.
An international music festival on Gamboa beach. It tends to rival the one at Baía das Gatas, on São Vicente.
A series of sporting and cultural events: fishing outings, ouril competitions, music and dancing.
June
Festivities and processions from the town of Sal Rei to the small abandoned chapel of Ermida, near Rocha Santo António, in the centre of the island.
It is celebrated on several islands, but on São Vicente it has a special resonance: they dance the Kola San Jon like nowhere else.
Saint John is the patron saint of the port of Furna. Processions and family celebrations, preceded by a week of cultural and sporting events.
A big parade to the sound of fifes and drums through the streets of the capital for Saint John's Day, celebrated here with particular fervour.
July
A food festival celebrating the kavala, or mackerel, to be enjoyed at stalls set up along Rua da Praia and Avenida Marginal. Entertainment, a cooking contest, boat rides, all to music.
A music festival in honour of Saint Teresa, in the caldera of the volcano.
A music festival commemorating Santiago Maior, patron of the municipality. It sets up a large stage on Areia Grande beach, on the east coast.
The summer carnival, for those who missed the one in February.
August
The municipality's festival day, in the north of the island.
Cape Verde's biggest international cultural and artistic event. For three days, on the lovely beach at Baía das Gatas, São Vicente welcomes rhythms and sounds from around the world.
An international music festival, usually scheduled for the weekend after Baía das Gatas.
Also called Nossa Senhora da Piedade. In the salt-pan village: processions, dancing, music and assorted entertainment for the Catholic feast of the Assumption.
For two days, concerts are held on Tedja's black-sand beach. Some fifteen bands from the islands or from the diaspora take part.
A music festival on Escurralete beach, not far from Porto Novo.
September
A festival in honour of the island's patron saint.
Assorted cultural events, including a music festival on Santa Maria beach, in memory of the founding of the first communities on the island.
November – December
Theatre companies from Cape Verde, Africa and elsewhere gather in Mindelo. A large part of the programme is aimed at young audiences.
The Christian feast of Christ the King. It comes with traditional music and dancing, and family meals around big pots of goat stew.
Masses in honour of the patron saint of Tarrafal de São Nicolau, and festivities throughout the town.
An extreme sporting event with three races to choose from: a 150 km "ultra marathon" across the island, a 70 km "Salt marathon" on the beaches and dunes, and a 42 km "eco marathon".
The festival of the island's patron saint.
National public holidays
| Date | Name | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| 1 January | Ano Novo | New Year's Day |
| 13 January | Dia da Liberdade e da Democracia | Freedom and Democracy Day |
| 20 January | Dia dos Heróis Nacionais | National Heroes' Day |
| 1 May | Dia do Trabalhador | Labour Day |
| 5 July | Dia da Independência | Independence Day |
| 15 August | Assunção | Assumption |
| 1 November | Todos os Santos | All Saints' Day |
| 25 December | Natal | Christmas Day |
| 29 December | Sagrada Família | Holy Family |
Two dates that tell the story of the country 20 January commemorates the assassination of Amílcar Cabral in 1973, the theorist of independence. 5 July celebrates the proclamation of independence in 1975. These are days when everything closes.
Sotavento, the leeward islands
Santiago, Maio, Fogo, Brava: the south of the archipelago, where accommodation is almost always a matter of guesthouses rather than hotels. Here is a selection, island by island.
What changes in the south
The leeward islands did not go through the beach-resort development of Sal and Boa Vista. Except in Praia, where conventional hotels are well established, you mostly stay with locals, in a family pension or a guesthouse, and that is precisely what makes these stays valuable: the hosts are often guides, aluguer drivers or cooks, and several of the hikes in the south of the archipelago start from their door, with dinner at the shared table.
Two practical consequences. First, capacities are small: ten rooms is already a big establishment, and in Chã das Caldeiras or Mosteiros you can count the choices on one hand, so book. Second, many of these addresses do not take bank cards: bring cash.
A price range that is not the north's For comparable quality, a double room often costs 1,000 to 3,000 CVE less than in Santa Maria or Mindelo. The €, €€ and €€€ bands used here are the same as in the Where to stay tab: under 4,500 CVE, 4,500 to 8,000, over 8,000.
Where to stay, island by island
A tight selection rather than the full list. Rates are starting prices for a double room and change from one season to the next.
Santiago
Praia for conventional hotels, Cidade Velha and the heights of Rui Vaz for guesthouses. The Platô, Cidade Velha and the Serra da Malagueta are in the Santiago guide.
Praia · Achada Santo António · €
Casa JC
For a stay that does not break the bank: a large contemporary house surrounded by a garden and with a pool, where you quickly feel at home. Nine rooms with good bedding, a bathroom, air conditioning and WiFi, and a kitchen at your disposal.
Double 4,000 CVE, breakfast included · 37 Rua Flor di Brava
Praia · €€
O Jardim do Vinho
A lovely guesthouse of four comfortable rooms, two of them with a shared bathroom. You are welcomed by hosts who know the island intimately and give good advice on visits and cultural outings. A patio for traditional breakfasts or an aperitif.
Double from 4,500 CVE, breakfast included · Rua Carlos Veiga
Praia · €€
Hotel Santa Maria
In the very centre of Praia, next to the market, a hotel that calls itself a tribute to music: its decoration is a journey through the traditional Cape Verdean repertoire. Thirty-six rooms.
Double from 4,900 CVE, breakfast included · Rua 5 de Julho
Praia · Fazenda · €€
Hotel Cesária
A lobby decorated with portraits of the diva Cesária Évora sets the tone. The rooms are functional (air conditioning, storage, fridge, WiFi) and the generous breakfast is served on a wide terrace overlooking the district.
Double from 7,000 CVE, breakfast included · Rua Che Guevara
Rui Vaz · €€
Quinta da Montanha
On the heights of Rui Vaz, with a stunning view of the mountains and lush nature. Twenty-eight clean, comfortable rooms, a bar and a restaurant much appreciated by Cape Verdeans; the Sunday buffet draws a wide clientele. The owners introduce guests to the produce of their garden and lead excursions.
Double 5,450 CVE, breakfast included
Cidade Velha · €
Hotel Pousada São Pedro
Nestled among mango and papaya trees, six double rooms that are simple, traditional and comfortable all at once. The place is calm and soothing, perfect for recharging between visits to the old city.
Double from 2,500 CVE, breakfast not included · Val Ribeira Grande
Assomada · €€€
Pousada Vassora
A guesthouse run by a French-Cape Verdean couple, set in a green haven with a 360-degree view. Five large rooms with private bathrooms, including a family room for four. Evening table d'hôte with local produce, some of it from the vegetable garden.
Double from 8,821 CVE, breakfast included · Cabeiça Careira Vassora
Tarrafal de Santiago · €€
Casa Strela B&B
A 200 m² pool, a roof terrace with sea views, and another shaded one. This guesthouse champions sustainable tourism, favouring short supply chains and local businesses.
Double from 5,200 CVE, breakfast included · free WiFi · Ponta de AtúmMaio
The most discreet island of the archipelago: few addresses, but a few really endearing ones. The salt pans, turtles and beaches are in the Maio guide.
Vila do Maio · €
Casa Évora
A superb guesthouse ideally placed facing the beach. Spacious, beautifully decorated and well-equipped rooms, communal areas and a panoramic terrace facing the ocean where breakfasts are served. Sunday brunch, picnic hampers.
Double from 3,000 CVE · continental or full breakfast extra · Avenida Amílcar Cabral
Vila do Maio · €
Pensão Casa Sousa
In a small colourful building in the town centre, a charming pension with eight fully equipped rooms. Choose a sea view. Breakfast, extra, comes with the traditional cachupa.
Double 3,640 CVE · breakfast 600 CVE · unlimited WiFi · Avenida Amílcar Cabral
Morro · €
A Caminhada
A Belgian couple dreamed up this eco-lodge for eco-tourism enthusiasts: electricity comes from solar panels. It comprises an apartment and three simple but well-designed small houses, each able to sleep four to five people. Small pool, bicycles provided, and hosts who cook for those who would rather not.
Night 4,400 CVE, breakfast included
Vila do Maio · €€
Casa Djarmai Boutique Apartments
Nestled in a garden decorated with seashells, this establishment offers several apartments decorated with traditional Cape Verdean charm. The terrace is ideal for outdoor barbecues, and you are a stone's throw from both the boarding port and the town centre.
Double room with WiFi from 5,000 CVE · Rua Shell
Calheta · €€
Torre Sabina
The lady of the house had the idea of fitting out two rooms in the tower of a former chapel, built a stone's throw from Calheta beach. Little round cocoons, not very big but wonderfully characterful, with ultra-cosy bedding. Bathroom, kitchen and living room are shared. Welcome in English or German.
Double 6,600 CVE, breakfast included · Praia Baxona
Punta Preta · €€€
Vila-Maio
Two villas open to the Atlantic, set on the Punta Preta cliff, completed by a large infinity pool. Each room has its own private bathroom, and the huge terrace doubles as a solarium. Meals prepared on site, to be ordered in advance.
Villa for 2 people 9,924 CVE, 2,200 CVE per extra person · breakfast 700 CVE · CalheitinaFogo
Three distinct bases: colonial São Filipe, Chã das Caldeiras in the crater, and Mosteiros in the north-east. The climb of the Pico and the volcano's wine are in the Fogo guide.
São Filipe · €
Hotel Miramar
This hotel does not go unnoticed with its quirky crimson contemporary façade. Beyond fairly standard decor, the rooms are faultless, especially on the ocean side: bathroom with shower or bath, minibar, air conditioning, WiFi, television. Courteous welcome and very professional service.
Double 4,000 CVE, breakfast included · Xaguate Baixo, 10 to 15 min on foot from the historic centre
São Filipe · €€
Pousada Bela Vista
A sobrado renovated with great care and perfectly equipped. About ten rooms arranged around a patio, each with a bathroom, hot water, air conditioning, television and minibar.
Double 5,900 CVE, breakfast included · Praça Rodrigo Achada Pato
São Filipe · €€
Hotel Sobrado Savana
A very well-kept, up-to-date three-star, popular with Cape Verdeans. Three minutes on foot from the mercado municipal.
Double from 5,700 CVE, superior room 6,800 CVE, breakfast included · Alto São Pedro
São Filipe · €€€
La Fora Eco-lodge
An eco hotel in open countryside, with a panoramic view of the Atlantic, the neighbouring island of Brava and the emblematic caldera. Tastefully decorated bungalows for two or three people, each with its own terrace. Pool, very good food with vegan and vegetarian dishes, a community-minded, environmentally friendly concept.
From 9,600 CVE, buffet breakfast included · 8.2 km north-east of São Filipe
São Filipe · €€€
The Colonial House
Stay in a nationally listed building: built towards the end of the 19th century, this sobrado has lost none of its majestic look of old. Eleven spacious rooms with private or shared bathroom, bar, restaurant, and several relaxation areas: pool, jacuzzi, massage rooms.
Double 10,600 CVE, breakfast included · Rua da Câmara municipal
Chã das Caldeiras · €
Casa Alcindo
After their house was destroyed by the 2014 eruption, the owners built a new home in a contemporary style, using local materials. Nine rooms around a colourful patio, spotless bathrooms, and above all a superb view of the Small and Big Pico. French-speaking hosts, inexhaustible on the subject of the volcano.
Double 4,400 CVE, triple 6,500 CVE, breakfast included · dinner 1,100 CVE
Chã das Caldeiras · €
Casa Adriano & Filomena
A very simple but lovely house, where the owning couple look after their guests with great care. Five bright, comfortable rooms with bathroom, hot water and fan, at gentle prices. Handy for transfers: the French-speaking master of the house is an aluguer driver and can take you on a tour of the island.
Double 3,500 CVE, breakfast included · meal 800 CVE · at the entrance to the caldera
Chã das Caldeiras · €
Casa Zé & Sonia
A love nest of kindness, right in the heart of the caldera. Eight rooms with WiFi, each with a hot-water bathroom and good bedding. The excellent meals are taken in the dining room with the whole family. A great luxury for the place: electricity is supplied by solar panel 24 hours a day. The French-speaking master of the house is also a guide and aluguer driver.
Double 4,400 CVE · dinner, dessert included, 1,200 CVE · Portela
Mosteiros · €
Tchon di Café
The comfort of the ten rooms in this family pension is fairly basic: a bed, a small fan, shared bathrooms. Everything is nonetheless well kept and the warm welcome makes you forget the rest, especially as accommodation options in Mosteiros are limited.
Double from 3,500 to 6,000 CVE, breakfast included · near the church
Mosteiros · €€
Pensão Christine
Its main asset? A spot right in the town centre, in front of the aluguer departure point, which is very handy when you have to catch one at 06:00 to get back to São Filipe. Eighteen very well-kept rooms, each with its own bathroom, and a charming owner.
Double from 4,500 CVE, breakfast included · suites from 6,500 CVE · between the post office and the town hall
São Jorge · €€
Pedra Negra Salina
Welcome to the end of the world: a night or two far from everything, in the company of the sea. A small pool, and a stone's throw from the Salinas cove to watch the fishing boats come home.
Double from 5,315 CVE, breakfast included · SalinasBrava
Almost everything is in Nova Sintra, the little capital perched up high. Few addresses, but a good general standard.
Nova Sintra · €
Pensão Paulo
A warm little pension with ten rooms and two studios, at fair value for money. The rooms are a touch old-fashioned, but well equipped: bathroom with hot water, television, safe. The restaurant is known for its quality, and Bravenses meet there at the weekend.
Double 3,500 CVE · Rua da Cultura, near Praça Eugénio Tavares
Nova Sintra · €
Eco-lodge Djabraba
Built on a rise and surrounded by a large wooded garden, this charming hotel has a magnificent view of the sea and of the island of Fogo. Eight rooms with bathroom and hot water, two suites with kitchen and living room: simple decor, impeccable upkeep and an excellent welcome.
Double 3,200 CVE, suite 4,500 CVE, breakfast included · Cruz Grande
Nova Sintra · €€
Residencial O Castelo
A handsome house in colonial style: six perfectly kept rooms on two levels, two upstairs with bathroom and hot water, which face a bar that is a little noisy at weekends, and four on the ground floor that share a bathroom. The house is also a restaurant, with good traditional cooking.
Double 4,800 CVE, breakfast included · dishes 500–800 CVE · Rua Padre Pio
Nova Sintra · €€
Hotel Nova Sintra
A lovely terrace with a view of the mountain, pleasant for a drink at the end of the day. The rooms, arranged around a patio, offer cosy comfort: good bedding, bathroom with hot water, satellite TV. The team helps organise excursions on the island.
Double 5,500 CVE, breakfast included · Avenida Principal
Nova Sintra · €€
Motel Brava Tur
A charming hotel set in a former colonial house, calm and impeccably kept. Seven generously sized rooms opening onto the garden or the mountains, all perfectly equipped. At the end of the week, music and dancing evenings in the restaurant's big hall.
Double 6,000 CVE, breakfast included · Travessa da Shell
Nova Sintra · €€
Hotel Cruz Grande
Probably the most luxurious hotel on Brava, spotted straight away at the entrance to town with its air of a little castle. Fifteen rooms in "basic" or "deluxe" versions, all well equipped; choose one that opens onto a small balcony. A lovely flower-filled terrace and free WiFi in the restaurant-bar.
Double from 6,300 CVE, breakfast included · Rua Principal, at the entrance to the villageBooking in the south Many of these addresses have no booking site: you write, you phone, or you go through a platform that lists only part of what is on offer. For Chã das Caldeiras and Mosteiros on Fogo, as for Brava, get in touch several weeks ahead, especially around carnival and the Saint John festivities.
The full guides to these islands
Sights, beaches, hikes, restaurants and local transport: each leeward island has its detailed guide on the blog.
Island guideSantiago
Praia and its Platô, UNESCO-listed Cidade Velha, Tarrafal and the Serra da Malagueta.
Read the guide → Island guideFogoPico do Fogo at 2,829 m, Chã das Caldeiras rebuilt on the lava, São Filipe and the volcano's wine.
Read the guide → Island guideMaioThe salt pans of Vila do Maio, the Northern Natural Park, turtles and empty beaches.
Read the guide →And Brava? The smallest and greenest island in the archipelago does not yet have its guide on the blog. The addresses above and the Calendar section (the Festas Juaninas in Furna, late June) are for now all this notebook says about it.
Glossary
Cape Verdean Creole in 189 words and phrases: what you hear every day, what you need to be able to pronounce, and what is enough to get by anywhere in the islands.
Two languages, and which one to speak
Creole (crioulo, or kriolu) is the national language, the everyday one. Its vocabulary comes mostly from Portuguese, but its grammatical structures are influenced by the languages of West Africa. There are marked differences between the southern and northern islands, and how to write it down is still not fully settled: do not be surprised to see the same word spelled three ways.
Portuguese remains the official language: that of administration, school and signs. And good news for a French speaker: French is compulsory in secondary school, and many Cape Verdeans speak it, often because they emigrated to France or Senegal. The country is a member of the International Organisation of La Francophonie.
What this glossary is really for Nobody expects you to speak Creole. But a bom dia on the way in, an obrigadu on the way out and a kantu kusta? at the market are enough to change the nature of an exchange completely. That is Cape Verdean morabeza: it is returned.
How it is pronounced
Words are often written as in Portuguese, but said differently. Here are the correspondences that come up most.
asounds like uh
usounds like oo
final or unstressed osounds like oo
ças in French
final emsounds like a nasal ayn
nhsounds like ny, as in "canyon"
lha liquid l, like "lli" in "million"
hsilent
rrolled at the start of a word and when doubled
final ssounds like sh
xoften sh
eia long ay
ãesounds like a nasal ayn
aisounds like eye
ãosounds like a nasal aown
õesounds like a nasal oyn
oisounds like oy, as in "boy"
The glossary
Search for a word in English or Creole, or pick a theme.
Introducing yourself, being polite
The twenty words that change everything: in Cape Verde, a bom dia called out on entering a shop does more than any phrase learned by heart.
Good morning (until noon)Bom dia
Good afternoon (after noon)Boa tarde
Good evening, good nightBoa noite
Hi (informal)Olá !
GoodbyeTchau (long term) / até logo (short term)
PleasePor favor
Thank youObrigadu (a man) / obrigada (a woman)
You're welcomeDe nada
Excuse me (when passing in front of someone)Com licença
SorryDiskulpa
Sir / madam / missSenhor / senhora / menina
How are you?Modi bu sta ? / Maner kbo ta ?
Very wellMuito bem
What is your name?Modi ki nho (m.) / nha (f.) txoma ?
My name is…Ntxoma…
Pleased to meet youMuito prazer / muito gosto
Yes / noSim / não
I don't understandNka intendi
Do you speak French?Nho (m.) / nha (f.) ta fala francês ?
I don't speak CreoleNka ta fala kriolu
I am FrenchAmi ê Francês / Francesa
InformationInformaçons
Handsome / beautifulBonitu / bonita
I am illNsta doente
Help!Socorro !
Watch out!Kuidadu !
ForbiddenProibidu
Finding your way, asking
Enough to get by when you are looking for a trailhead, an address or a museum's opening time.
Where is…?Undi é… ?
When?Kuandu ?
How much?Kantu ?
May we visit…?Nu podi visita… ?
Possible / impossiblePossível / impossível
There is… / There isn't…Tem… / Ka tem…
Town mapPlanus de cidade
AddressMorada
Near / farPertu / longi
Straight aheadEm frente
Right / leftÀ direita / à esquerda
This way / that wayPor aqui / por ali
Entrance / exitEntrada / saída
Open / closedAbertu / fitxadu
Free, free admissionGratuitu, entrada livre
More / lessMas / menus
A lot / a littleTxeu / poku
Time
Worth noting: "now" is not said the same way in the north and south of the islands, one of the clearest markers between the two Creoles.
Today / tomorrow / yesterdayHoji / manham / onti
Morning / eveningDi cedu / tardi
NowGossi (Sotavento) · Grinhassim (Barlavento)
NeverNunca
Every dayTudu dia
WeekendFim di simana
Public holidaysDias feriados
HolidaysFérias
What time is it, please?Ki hora sta, por favor ?
It is half past oneSta uma e meia
MondaySigunda-fera
TuesdayTerça-fera
WednesdayQuarta-fera
ThursdayKinta-fera
FridaySexta-fera
SaturdaySábadu
SundayDumingu
JanuaryJaneru
FebruaryFevereru
MarchMarçu
AprilAbril
MayMaiu
JuneJunhu
JulyJulhu
AugustAgostu
SeptemberSetembru
OctoberOutubru
NovemberNovembru
DecemberDizembru
Money, shopping
Useful everywhere, and indispensable at the market: prices are not always displayed, and the escudo is quickly counted in thousands.
MoneyDinheru
BankBanku
BanknotesNotas
Bank cardKarton di créditu
To change moneyTroka dinheru
Cash machineCaixa automática · Multibanco
Invoice, billFatura
Change (given back)Troku
CoinsMoedas
WalletKarteira
To go shoppingFazi kompra
ShopLoja
SupermarketSupermerkadu
MarketMercadu
BakeryPadaria
How much does it cost?Kantu kusta ?
It's very expensive / cheapÉ muito karu / baratu
PricePreçu
Counting
Numbers are said almost as in Portuguese, with a Cape Verdean accent.
One / firstUm / primeru
Two / secondDos / sigundu
Three / thirdTrês / terceru
Four / fourthKuatru / kuartu
Five / fifthCinku / kintu
Six / sixthSes / sextu
Seven / seventhSeti / sétimu
Eight / eighthOitu / oitavu
Nine / ninthNovi / nonu
Ten / tenthDez / décimu
ElevenOnzi
TwelveDozi
ThirteenTrezi
FourteenKatorzi
FifteenKinzi
SixteenDizasses
SeventeenDizasseti
EighteenDizoitu
NineteenDizanovi
TwentyVinti
ThirtyTrinta
FortyQuarenta
FiftyCinquenta
One hundredCem
Two hundredDuzentos
Five hundredQuinhentos
One thousandMil
At the hotel
Six phrases are enough to book into a pension that has no website or email.
Do you have a room?Nho (m.) / nha (f.) tem um kuarto disponivel ?
Single roomKuarto di solteiru
Double roomKuarto di kasal · kuarto duplo
Double bedKama di kasal
Bathroom with bathKasa de banhu ku banhera
Bathroom with showerKasa de banhu ku chuveru
Air conditioningAr kondicionadu
At the table
The vocabulary that really helps in front of a handwritten menu or a pratu du dia announced out loud.
The billKonta
To eatComer
To drinkBébi
BreakfastPikenu-almoçu
LunchAlmoçu
DinnerJantar
Dish of the dayPratu du dia
Half portionMeia-dose
Grill restaurantChurrascaria
TapasPitisku
SoupSopa
DessertDoci
SkewerEspetada
GrilledGreliadu
Oven-bakedNa fornu
Charcoal-grilledNa karbon
Boiled, boiled dinnerKuzidu
Hot / cold / lukewarmKenti / friu / mornu
PlatePratu
GlassKopu
KnifeFaka
ForkGarfu
SpoonCudjer
NapkinGuardanapu
BreadPon
EggsOvus
CheeseKeju
ButterManteiga
Salt / saltySal / salgadu
Sugar / sweetAçúcar / doxi
PepperPimenta
BeefVaka
ChickenFrangu
Kid (young goat)Kabritu
PorkPorku
SteakBifi
Smoked hamPrisuntu
TunaAtum
Salt cod, codBakalhau
Fish stewKaldeirada
LobsterLagosta
PrawnKamaron
OctopusPolvu
SquidLula
CuttlefishChoco
SardineSardinha
RiceArroz
PotatoesBatatas
BeanFijon
ChickpeaGrão
CabbageCouve
OnionsCebolas
CarrotsCenouras
LettuceAlfaci
Olive oilAzeti
Still / sparkling waterÁgua sem gás / cu gás
Coffee: long / short / with a drop of milk / with milkCafé cheiu / curto / pingado / cu leti
BeerCerveja
TeaChá
MilkLeti
Fruit juiceSumo de fruta
Red / white / green wineVinhu tintu / branku / verdi
Local cane rumGrog · grogu
Bottle / half bottleGarrafa / meia garrafa
No word matches. Try fewer letters, or go back to All.
The words we do not translate
Some terms have no English equivalent (their story is told in the cultural guide to the islands) and come up constantly in conversation and on signs: morabeza, Cape Verdean hospitality; aluguer, the shared taxi; grogue and pontche, the cane spirit and its honey version; sobrado, the two-storey colonial house; funco, the round hut; ribeira, the dry valley; and finally sodade, that mix of nostalgia and longing that the morna sings.
Sixteen of them, explained one by one The blog's cultural guide contains an interactive mini-glossary: sixteen words to flip with a click, with what they mean and where they come from.